Category: Africa

I was on today’s 10:30am Bellview flight from Freetown (Sierra Leone) to Banjul (the Gambia). Bellview is Nigeria’s airline notorious for delays, cancellations, and worse. A significant amount of water lies between Freetown and the airport, and there are several ways to traverse this: helicopter (fast, expensive, dangerous), ferry (slow, cheap, slow, slow), hovercraft (fast, expensive, inherently awesome, prone to break down – but at least no one gets hurt), and speedboat.Someone told me the hovercraft left at 8am, so at 7:30 I took a taxi from my hotel and arrived at the hovercraft site. No hovercraft today! Saturday is maintenance day! The taxi man then took me to the helicopter pad. No helicopter today! (If you have a fancy UN passport, you can fly in the UN helicopter, but I do not.)

Taxi man (Daoud) took me back to the hovercraft, where I argued for a long time with the speedboat captain about price. After waiting a half hour to see if someone else might show up to split the cost, I paid a crazy price and sped across the waters.

The speedboat dropped me on the beach of a hotel. First the beach boys demanded money for walking across their beach (No, I said, Do you own the beach? Show me the title! – I was grumpy at this point). Then the hotel proprietor wanted to be paid for walking through the hotel, and after a fight, I agreed, walked through the hotel, walked up a big hill, took a taxi to the airport, and arrived just one hour before my scheduled flight time. Phew!

I walked up to the attendants. Bellview to Banjul? They laughed. Maybe by 3pm or 4pm. I should have taken the ferry. Twice.

Update: The plane finally took off six hours after the scheduled time.  No one batted an eye.  The napkin my in-flight beverage rested on read “Bellview…the preferred airline.”  Perhaps preferred by people whose alternative is a donkey cart.  That said, the flight felt completely safe, for which I am grateful.  And what a view of West Africa!

I’m back in Sierra Leone (Salone, as it is oft called locally), and this evening I was unable to communicate with my taxi driver over the phone (telling him where to come and pick me up).  So he picked me up late and I was very annoyed.

So, to the take the edge (read, my edge) off, I asked him to teach me some Krio on the ride back to my hotel.   There is nothing like learning a new language to humble you, especially Krio, which is a blend of English and local languages.  So my first query

Q: How do you say “8 o’clock” in Krio?

A: 8 o’clock

Nice.  But it’s not all identical, although that would disappoint Mallory’s boyfriend Nick.  Here are a few lines I “learned” (read, wrote down in my little book and read back).

Mi na mi neim [my name].  – My name is [my name].

Mi a di go tumara. – I’m going tomorrow.

Yu na Krio cheecha. – You are a Krio teacher.

Da ooman na mi ooman.  -That’s my wife.

Yu tok na reit ting.  -You speak the truth.

Dis neim bi fein.  -Nice name.

By the time we got home, we’d both laughed a lot.  Good night.

Last Saturday I was hiking alone on Bongoyo Island off the coast of Dar. It was marvelously solitary: all the tourists had stuck with the beach, and I felt like I had the rest of the island to myself. At some point, I come across a threatening looking sign with an animal skull hanging from a tree. My Swahili has atrophied to the point that all I knew was that the sign said “Warning!” and then something else.Should I go down the path? Will someone kill me? I walk a few steps forward, a few steps back, finally decide I need a little adventure and wander down. I come across a ruined old building and a very large reptile (2+ feet long), but nothing else. I also – after walking for twenty minutes or so – found myself back where I had started, so I considered that perhaps I had entered some sort of wormhole.

When I got back, a friend translated the sign for me.

Notice: You’re not allowed to cut trees on this island.  -By government order

I still think it might have been a wormhole.

[More photos.]